Peru/Paracas – El Chaco & Reserva Nacional de Paracas

The desert and the sea come together in spectacular landscapes in Paracas, in the department of Ica, just a few hours south from Lima. El Chaco is the principal location on the Paracas peninsula, but is often called Paracas. The earthquake in 2007 destroyed lots of the city but it has rebuilt since, as well as nice hotels, restaurants and the marina.

Main attractions are the boat tour at Islas Ballistas, wondering on the Malecon (marina) and discovering the Paracas National Reserve. Fair warning, the reserve isn’t green, it’s a desert! But pretty amazing one, you don’t feel in Peru.

This reserve is dedicated to the protection and the conservation of marine ecosystems as well as for the protection of the cultural and historical patrimony of the pre-Inca Paracas culture. It is considered as one of the richest and most uncommon ecosystems. The reserve is home to many species of wildlife, particularly birds, which are largely concentrated at the water’s edge in what is called the largest concentration of birds on earth.

You can book tours, buggy rides or ask a taxi to drop you off but I preferred renting bikes to go from the Malecon to the Playa Roja. It’s about 10km, a bit harsh, but worth the journey and the amazing view of the beach. You can also go further to Playa de la Mina where people enjoy the beach and a dip in the ocean. You can rent bikes at the Paracas Backpackers House for 25 soles a day.

Located between Playa Lagunillas and Punta Santa Maria, Playa Roja is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Paracas National Reserve due to its reddish color shore. This characteristic, most unusual along the Peruvian Coast, gives this beach a unique beauty that amazes visitors. The red color of the sand is caused by the massif of Punta Santa Maria formed by a rock called pink granodiorite, which contains solidified magma inside. When breaking against the cliffs, the waves carry fragments of the red rocks on the shore, in a beautiful contrast with the yellow cliffs.

At sunset, the Paracas coast spins through a range of colors, the signal for nostalgic visitors to return to the city.

The entrance fee for the reserve is but you can also buy a ticket combining the reserve with the Islas Ballistas (17 soles, that you don’t have to use on the same day).

You can also spend some free time at the beach of the Malecon. You can rent some umbrellas at the beach, and go into the ocean. Some locals will sell you raspadillas (snow cones, don’t worry they are made out of drinkable water) and other drinks.

Getting to Paracas: you can take buses from most big cities (Lima, Arequipa, Ica, Nazca). You can also take a bus to Pisco and take a colectivo (1.50 soles, 30min) or a taxi to get to El Chaco. I took a bus from Lima to Pisco on Soyuz, very good service, seats super comfortable and cheap (36 soles for the VIP trip 3h30, 20 soles for the regular trip 4h30).