Sweden – Gothenburg

Sweden’s second city, Göteborg (Gothenburg) is an often-underappreciated destination in Scandinavia. But with its laidback attitude, architecture and food to die for, Gothenburg is the perfect destination for a few days vacation. Gothenburg’s citizens are extremely proud of their city and their country, you’ll see flags around every corner, which adds a little charm to the place.

Gothenburg was really pleasant to walk through. The mix of architecture, the wooden houses to impressive city buildings and modern structures, the tram-rattled streets; was actually surprising. I shamingly was expecting a very Ikea-style city, and it had so much more to offer!

The center seems to be rather small, and it is eminently walkable but exploring it is actually pretty exhausting. You want to go down every street, afraid to miss a cute vintage shop or delicious coffee place. Because, yes, coffee break is a religion here! They even have a name for it: Fika. It can be translated to “a coffee and cake break”, but it’s actually a whole concept and way of living, which is an important part of Swedish culture. It means making time for friends and colleagues to share a cup of coffee and a little something to eat.

Gothenburg is a very green city with lots of parks and grass areas. For example, Trädgårdsföreningen (Garden Society) is one of Europe’s most beautifully preserved 19th-century parksand is home to Europe’s largest rosarium, with around 2500 varieties. The gracious Palmhuset (Palm House) was inspired by the Crystal Palace in London, with five differently heated halls exposing exotic plants, a real feast for any eye.

There are lots of interesting museums within the city, including the famous Gothenburg Museum of Art and the public science center called Universeum. I didn’t have the time for the Art Museum, but I took A LOT of pleasure visiting the Universeum! OK, it’s a kids’ museum but I really recommend it event to adults. You’ll find yourself in the midst of a humid rainforest (really humid…), then facing a shark in the big aquarium tunnel, then back again with the toucans and little monkeys just above your head, wondering where the lizards and snakes are hidden in their tanks, and through a safari with roaring dinosaurs on the rooftop. Södra Vägen 50, 10am-6pm, entrance 190sek

For a more hipster visit, head to the Haga district. It’s the oldest and most characterful neighborhood of Gothenburg, from the 18th century. Formerly a low-rise place, its cobbled streets and vintage buildings are now trending. You can spend a few hours shopping in the vintage and second-hand stores and enjoy a fikain one of the cafes, such as the Café Husaren, famous for its giant cinnamon buns under a century-old glass ceiling.

After eating so much sugar, you’ll need a short walk up to to Skansen Kronan. The fortress offers a glimpse of Swedish history, as well as sweeping views over the city.

Make a stop at the square Järntorget, beautiful in spring with blossoming trees mixing up with the trams passing by.

After that, walk along the refreshing Vallgraven canal to the Fish Market Hall and relax on one of the benches if the weather is nice! The Feskekörka (Fish Church). It was built in 1874 and does look like a church and has the freshest seafood in Gothenburg. It has a few stalls and restaurants inside, but do not expect a huge market, it’s actually pretty small.

If you’re up for some shopping, and really you should be, the neighborhood around Magasinsgatan is great. It used to be a warehouse district and is well worth a visit to browse shops with everything from interior design to vintage clothing. I came back with a few decoration articles back home, so you better keep in mind to have some extra space in your suitcase! You can also take Avenyn, the main avenue or Linnégatan. You also have to go on Victoriapassagen, a narrow little street, full of charm and a great shop Granit.

At night, you can walk along the Göta river where you’ll see amazing ships moored and huge colorful cranes. With the dimming lights, it’s pretty nice.

 

Foodies will be thrilled to learn that Gothenburg was a delicacy heaven! Even the simplest dishes have a unique charm: hot-dogs, shrimp sandwichs, kanelbullar (cinnamon bun) and, my favorite, köttbullar (meatballs) served with mashed potatoes, cream Sauce and Lingonberries. So many places to try out, here are some I had the pleasure to experience:

• Kungstorget: next to the food hall Saluhallen, the terrasse of this restaurant is great, facing the sun and serving delicious meatballs! Take a jar of ice tea with it and you’re good for lunch! Kungstorget 7
• Pix & Pintxos: trendy bar to grab a beer, they give blankets so you can stay outside. Västra Hamngatan 27
• Stranger: speakeasy bar in a cellar under the bar Tranquilo. The place is beautifully decorated and serves monthly inspired cocktails, giving you the feeling that you’re in a secret bar during the prohibition era. Kungstorget 14, ring the doorbell of the black door, left to te Tranquilo restaurant
• Yammy Kitchen: delicious Korean place. The food was good, especially the gyoza (might actually be the best I’ve eaten so far…) and the ramen. Andra Långgatan 5
• Familjen: contemporary gastronomic Swedish brasserie with a warm and friendly atmosphere, rated Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide. You better book your table in advance because it’s very popular. Arkivgatan 7
• Heaven 23: race up to the 23rd floor of the Gothia Towers for a fantastic view over the city, romantic at sunset, and try a cocktail and a shrimp sandwich (one is more than enough for two!) Mässans gata 22
• Steampunk bar: fun steampunk atmosphere with quirky details where drinks are often steaming. Cocktails are very sweet but the place is relaxing and nice with friends, especially the upper floor. Kungsgatan 7A

 

If you still have a day, the southern archipelago is especially worth a visit.

The city wasn’t cheap, I have to say, but actually not as expensive as I imagined. The biggest part in the budget is the food: restaurants are pretty expensive, so you might want to cook or have picnics if you’re on a tight budget.

From the airport, you can grab a bus Flygbussarna that drives to the city center. It costs 215sek for a round trip (or 198sek if you buy it online) and makes a few stops in the center, so check which one is the closest to your hotel. It’s very practical and there is a bus every 15min.

I stayed at the Hotell Onyxen, really charming hotel, nice staff and delicious breakfast. I fell in love with the restaurant, and breakfast area, so design… And right next to the airport bus stop Korsvägen.
Sten Sturegatan 23, about 1’400sek for a double room breakfast included

One last tip: this city is cashless! Do not change any money because most places don’t even accept cash, only credit cards.

Gothenburg was a beautiful surprise and, being a first glance of Scandinavia for me, I was absolutely charmed…