Peru – Cusco/Cuzco

Peru’s most popular destination city, built on Inca construction and history, then conquered and remodeled by the Spanish with imposing colonial architecture, Cusco is unlike any other city in the world. Quechua people declared this town was the belly button of the world and was the capital of the Inca Empire. From the streets and architecture to the people and their clothing, Cusco is a must on your itinerary, even if it’s crowded with tourists.

First thing’s first, you’ll need time to acclimatize. I would suggest spending a few days in order to take your time. Cusco is completely walkable but it’s also about 3’400m above sea level so take it easy on your first days there. I would also recommend bringing appropriate clothing: it can be very hot during the day, especially around June, but the temperature quickly drops at night. Bring a few layers!

Cusco is what you make of it. For many, it’s just a picturesque two-day stop before and after going to the Machu Picchu. But the town itself is really a gem, it’s a fascinating window into Andean culture and Inca history. The city has enough to keep you occupied, you should really stay at least a week.

  • Explore: just walking around Cusco in the small, narrow cobble-stoned streets throughout the city, feels as though you’re in a time warp with Inca foundation buildings, evinced by the finely laid rocks, with colonial architectural finishes.
  • Free walking tour: many different agencies organize them , I would suggest taking a tour at the beginning of your stay, to have a first introduction to the culture and help you orient yourself in the city
  • Plaza de Armas: go people watching, there’s something relaxing about sitting in the afternoon, watching tourists and Peruvians bustling on the main square. Also, go have a look at night, the atmosphere completely changes and has a kind of magical feeling. Stay in Cusco for a while and you’ll definitely see a street parade which usually starts at the Plaza de Armas.
  • Qorikancha: the Sun Temple, was the most important temple in the Inca Empire. The conquistadores (Spanish conquerors) built the Church of Santo Domingo on the site, demolishing the temple and using its foundations for the cathedral. But part of the temple is fairly well preserved and makes the site worth your time, containing both Catholic and Inca heritage with beautiful views. Mon-Sat 08:30am-5:30pm, Sun 2pm-5pm, 10 soles
  • Plaza Regocijo
  • Seven streets: the number 7 is sacred to many ancient cultures that existed and in many cases a number that has caused a kind of veneration. In Cusco, there are 7 streets with names that start with the number 7, such as Calle Siete Culebras (7 snakes) which one of the most beautiful streets of Cusco. As a reminder, the snakes represent the world of the dead, in the Quechua beliefs.
  • San Blas: from the Plaza de Armas, if you go up the many, many (many) stairs, you’ll arrive in San Blas neighborhood. Once you’re up there, walk around, lose yourself in the charm of the narrow streets and discover the many artisans, workshops and craft shops. It’s worth the effort, trust me! don’t miss Tandapata street, and Templo de San Blas, the oldest parish church, for the stunning view over the city.
  • Hatunrumiyoq: one of the streets you can take to go to San Blas and is the most visited by tourists. Along Hatunrumiyoq, meaning “the one with the big stone”, a wall that was once part of an Inca palace, you can see the Stone of Twelve Angles, which is viewed as a marvel of ancient stonework and has become emblematic of the city’s history.
  • San Pedro Market: the colorful, vibrant and packed local market. OK, the touristy market but still shouldn’t be missed. sell everything from touristy trinkets to fresh chickens to bags of coca leaves. If you’re looking for real baby alpaca blankets, this is not the place, but they do sell the cheapest souvenirs and pretty good quality.
  • Museo Inka: small museum, but good for getting a better idea of the Inca civilization. Ataud 154, Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-4pm, 10 soles

 

You’ll be propositioned by young ladies handing out flyers advertising massages at every corner. These are legit, cost about 25 soles for 1 hour, but are not done by trained masseuses. Still, for this price, how can you say no? I’d still leave my belonging at the hotel before going, if I were you, better safe than sorry.

You’ll see a lot of llamas or alpacas walking around town, on a leash. They have become props for tourists’ photos so you’ll have to pay to take a picture (5-10 soles). I am, personally, not a fan of this way of treating animals, but it’s part of the everyday life over there now.

The city is surrounded by a number of ruins, the most impressive being Sacsayhuaman. I haven’t had the courage of visiting them, so unfortunately, I can’t give any recommendations. But there are numerous day tours visiting all of them at ounce. Keep in mind that you need the Boleto turistico to visit these sites. Of course, Cusco is also the departing city for the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

Another thing you should know is that the flag with the colors of the rainbow you will see everywhere in the city, is the flag of Cusco, and not the LGBT pride flag. There is a difference between the two flags: an extra blue stripe.

The center of Cuzco is small enough to walk around, although you will probably need to catch a bus/taxi to the bus station, ruins or airport. Beware about walking around at night and always use official radio taxis (ask your hotel/restaurant to call one for you). Always keep a close eye on your belongings, I got my wallet stolen from my jacket in a crowd and didn’t even feel a thing. But try not to feel threatened, there’s a very good atmosphere in this city, not a menacing one.

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