Peru – Huaraz & Laguna 69

You can’t exactly call Huaraz a pretty place, with most of the buildings built from concrete. However, it provides all the facilities and infrastructure required by tourism. This is first and foremost a trekking metropolis. It’s the gateway to the spectacular Cordillera Blanca and has become northern Peru’s epicentre for hikers. For outdoor lovers, this place simply has to be on your itinerary. Whether you fancy a one day hike to Laguna 69, or a multi-day trek through the Cordillera Blanca, all can be arranged and started from here.

Huaraz sits at more than 3000m, so you’re going to let yourself acclimate to the altitude and take it easy for the first day or two. I can’t stress enough the importance to acclimate. Since I didn’t do it properly and suffered the consequences, trust me on this one!

I stayed at the hostel Akilpo with dorm beds outfitted with their own little lights, power points, and curtains. The staff is healthful and you can book your tours directly with them. This is one of the most popular hostels in town and i would recommend it, even though the shower isn’t incredible.

One restaurant you should definitely try, recommended by a couple of Belgian friends, is the Chill Heaven. The food is really good and staff is friendly. I can’t really determine what type of cuisine they have as it’s a mix between Mexican, Thai and maybe even Indian but I recommend the chicken red curry or the fajitas with a nice beer, big portions and delicious!

Parque Ginebra, lot 28, Mon-Sun 9am-10pm (dish around 30 soles)

Laguna 69

Who hasn’t seen one of the many pictures of this incredible turquoise lagoon in the middle of the mountains? This trek had been on my bucket list for a long time and I’m so happy I went through with it because it was worth every step of the way!

Going to the laguna with a tour will take you a full day. You’ll leave Huaraz at 5am from your hotel and return around 6pm. Prices start at 30 soles for transportation and can be higher if it includes a guide (which you don’t really need). The bus will take 3h to reach the beginning of the hike usually with a breakfast break (not included in the price), you will then hike around 3h up, stay 1-2h at the laguna, hike 2h down and leave around 3pm towards Huaraz. The tour doesn’t actually include a guide. In fact, all you are paying for is your transport to and from the lake with a few stops.

But doing it on your own will take you more time and eventually cost more than a tour.

Laguna 69 is at 4,600 metres above sea level. Giving yourself time to acclimatise to the altitude is absolutely vital. I did the hike the day after I arrived in Huaraz and my body had never felt so awful, I almost didn’t make it to the top. Don’t put yourself through unnecessary suffering, stay a few days in the city first.

You should take plenty of layers with you to combat the unpredictable weather changes up there.