Ecuador – Baños

Baños may not appear to be anything special at first, but looks can be deceiving. This little town is actually one of the most popular tourist attractions in Ecuador.

According to the locals, there were a number of miracles performed in town by Santa Mari, and so they named the waterfall in her honor, Cascada de La Virgen. Even the town’s official name, Baños de Agua Santa, means Baths of Sacred Water.

To get to Baños, take a 3-4 hour bus ride from the Quitumbe station in Quito, which costs around 4 USD.

Baños is the Ecuadorian mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. Walk through town and you’ll find plenty of agencies ready to take you on an outdoor adventure.

Ruta de las Cascadas

Baños is home to the famous Ruta de las Cascadas! The route through the valley passes 7 waterfalls and other beautiful views. To do the route, rent a bike (5 USD per day in many agencies in town) or take a chiva (open air bus). The bike is a great option for seeing everything on your own time. The rental agency will give you a map with all the waterfalls but it’s just one road so you can’t get lost! You will be riding next to vehicles for some of the way but drivers are used to paying attention to bikers. Plus, it’s downhill most of the way and you can pay 2 USD at the last waterfall to get trucked back into town. About the truck, you might not always be lucky. We waited for 2 hours because the driver wanted to leave only with a minimum of 6 people, then just said he wasn’t going to do it because he was done waiting. In that case, negotiate with the local bus to take your bike for an extra dollar.

The whole way, and at each waterfall, you’ll find canopies (zip lining) or other activities such as cable cars. I thought it was a bit of a shame because there are so many, it disturbs the view of the waterfalls, but people seem to really enjoy flying over canyons!

If you’re hungry, there is a cute local place I would recommend. When you get to the red cable cars, take the one that goes on top of the waterfall (there are 3 cable cars, but only one really goes on top of the waterfall). Then walk up, pass the first restaurant and turn left. You’ll see a local place with a small pound. The owner will encourage you to fish your own trucha (trout) and he will then cook it for you. For 4 USD, you get to fish, eat your catch with rice and vegetables and a juice. A great time!

Whatever you do, don’t head home until you’ve reached Pailón del Diablo (the Devil’s caldron). It looks like something out of Lord of the Rings and is worth the wait. You’ll have to pay 1 USD to get in the park. Once you get to the waterfall, pass in the rocky tunnel on the right until you get behind the waterfall, it’s a great sensation. Bring a raincoat and bag protection because you’ll be soaking wet!

Casa del arbol

Casa de Arbol is one of the top reasons people visit Baños (it was for me!): everyone’s seen that iconic picture, flying high above the mountains, in je total void. Well, it’s a great picture, but don’t get your hopes up too high: you’re not actually that high off the ground, and getting that picture takes a bit of optic illusion. But it’s still fun!

To get there, go to the “Casa del arbol terminal” and take a 45 min bus ride (1 USD). Check the time schedule as it only goes up and down at certain times! And don’t organize anything the same day that can’t be moved because sometimes, the bus doesn’t want to respect the time table. You can also take a taxi for 10 USD.

Spa and thermal baths

Walking down the streets of Baños, you will be offered multiple spa treatments and prices. After 6 months traveling, I wanted to treat myself so I decided to book an afternoon at Luna Runtun. Situated 20 min away from the center (5-6 USD for the taxi one way), the hotel resort has 4 different pools with volcanic water at different temperatures. You can enjoy the pools for 20 USD if you’re not a guest, and soak in the sun while watching the amazing view over Baños and the mountains. For 48 USD, you can also get a full body 1 hour massage or other treatments starting at 15 USD.

Las Piscinas de la Virgen are located in the city, next to a waterfall, the baths doesn’t seem to be a popular tourist destination. But they are not to be missed! After paying the 3.50 USD entrance fee, and renting the required bathing cap (0.40 USD), leaving your belongings in a basket at the locker rooms, head to one of the tubs with varying depths and water temperatures. The yellow water might make you pause, but relax, it’s not dirty, but rich with sulfides and natural minerals. The locals swear by its healing powers!

The pools are crowded, but the atmosphere is friendly and pleasant. And I do recommend going after dark so the sun doesn’t make the experience uncomfortable!

Eat in Baños

In addition to selling fresh products, half of the mercado is a huge cafeteria which is always filled with locals enjoying the food. Most of the stalls in the market offer an almuerzo (lunch menu): soup, juice, and a main course (usually rice, chorizo, eggs, salad, and llapingacho or a second option with chicken or beef). The almuerzo should cost 2.50 USD.

You can’t walk through Baños without seeing someone standing in the doorway of his shop, pulling and wrapping a pliable length of color. They are making melcocha, a sweet taffy made from sugar cane. Have a taste even though it’s pretty sweet!