Peru/Paracas – Islas Ballestas

The most important attraction in Paracas, are the Islas Ballistas (Islands Ballestas). Although its nickname is the ‘poor man’s Galapagos, the Islas Ballestas make for a memorable excursion.

The only way to get there is with a boat tour, offered by many travel agencies. None of the small boats have a cabin, so dress to protect against the cold wind, spray and sun. The sea can get rough, so sufferers of motion sickness should take medication before boarding. I would suggest you sitting on the left side of the boat to get a better view.

The boat journey starts at the marina and takes about 2 hours. The boat first stops in front of the famous three-pronged Candelabra geoglyph on the Paracas National Reserve, a giant figure etched into the sandy hills, which is over 150m high and 50m wide. No one knows exactly who made the geoglyph, when, nor what it signifies, but theories abound. Some connect it to the Nazca Lines, while others say it was inspired by a local cactus species with hallucinogenic properties. The liquid inside would be used to diminish pain to patients during a surgery.

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An hour is spent cruising around the islands’ arches and caves, watching large herds of sea lions tanning on the rocks. You’ll also a lot of birds such pelicans, inca terns, cormorants and Humboldt penguins. Although you can get close enough to the wildlife, some species, especially the penguins, are more visible with binoculars.

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Sea lion breeding season is between January and March. If you are lucky enough to travel during this time of the year, you will see the beaches full of sea lion cubs and huge rival males defending their mating territories.

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Fun fact : the guano of the island was exploited in the 19th and 20th century and exported because of its amazing virtues as a natural fertilizer. It was the cause for the Pacific War (1879) which faced Bolivia-Peru again Chile. Today, guano is still extracted every 6 years and exported in big quantities (approximately 40$/kg). Peru is the biggest exporter of this product. Who knew that you could earn a fortune from bird poop?

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The boat tour costs usually 30 soles but you can have it cheaper at Escape Tours Pedro Antonio (reservations at 937 049 287). You will have to pay, in addition, a 5 soles fee at the marina, as well as the entrance fee (17 soles if you take a combination ticket with the Reserva Nacional de Paracas, that you don’t have to use on the same day).

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